That’s what I like about - it’s configurable. We agree about the need for a sharp cutoff (like 36 dB) the 18 Hz I mentioned wasn’t so much a starting point, but as an example point by which the cut needs to start ‘kicking in, to protect below 13 Hz, where its needed. If you’re doing a 0.1 LFE sub on a budget, and want say 15 - 150 Hz +/- 3 dB, would a PA amp be better? (I wasn’t suggesting that you drew the graph) Even if they “only for low bass” I’m amazed that *any amps can have such a highly limited bandwidth. I think you should do so even if you choose to use two independent woofers for some odd reason. All this and many more reasons are real good rpersuasion to mix your base below, say 100-140 Hz. Otherwise, maintaining two (or more) woofer channels, you are creating separate bass pseudo-phases, and pseudo-sounds where none existed before. I bet there's lots of overloading going on inside those DC-to-llight amps from junk you can't hear anyway. I guess it would be good to keep those useless subsonics out of the amp chain right from the start and again right before the amp. If you start at a fantasy point, like 18 Hz, you end up cutting too little. since there is likely to be a little bump at that point (good) and no real cut till below 20 Hz. (BTW - The lowest note on a standard electric bass guitar is about 40Hz.Hard for any manufacturer to make and to advertize an amp with any diminution in the 20-20k band.īut, in my fairly long experience, you really want a really really sharp cutoff (like 36dB/8ave) and you really need it to start somewhere north of 20 Hz, like 25. Subwoofers for dance clubs and live music are usually tuned to go down-to about 40Hz and that allows the maximum bass energy & bass loudness (for a given subwoofer size and amplifier power) and it's low-enough for bass you can feel in your body.
Subsonic filter diy plus#
Subwoofers tend to be inefficient if they are "tuned" to very-low frequencies, plus our ears are less sensitive to very-low frequencies so you can start needing tons of power. I don't know how sensitive/efficient bass shakers are. Of course you're not loosing total power and everything will probably be OK if you don't boost the bass. In that case you can simply use a higher-value capacitor (more uF).
Subsonic filter diy series#
Or if you are "lucky" it might just be one "DC blocking" capacitor in series with the input. You'd probably have to change a couple of capacitors and/or a couple of resistors. There's more than one way to make a filter. Is there a schematic? Or, can you figure-out the circuit and draw the schematic? Without knowing the circuit this will be nearly impossible. (BTW - The lowest note on a standard electric bass guitar is about 40Hz.) Subwoofers for home theater often go lower but they don't have to fill a big space with big-sound.
Where you really "get into trouble" is when you start boosting the lowest frequencies with EQ and demanding even-more than the program material naturally calls-for. If it's putting out 300W at 40Hz, it can't put-out 300W at 20Hz too, but it could put-out 150W at 40Hz and 150W at 20Hz at the same time. It's also just because it's (usually) reproducing other sounds at the same time. Click to expand.Of course you're not loosing total power and everything will probably be OK if you don't boost the bass.īut you're right if it's reproducing subsonic bass, those watts are "lost" from any other frequencies, and it's not just because those frequencies are lower.
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